Rediscovering Puglia
WORDS & IMAGES: CHYKA KEEBAUGH
This year, we decided we would go back and rediscover Puglia…
The last time we travelled through this beautiful area was a good four or five years ago, and when I left, I didn’t feel as connected or charmed as some of my other favourite places in Italy. But I knew deep down it had so much more to offer, and I just wasn’t seeing it! This year was different. We rented a villa in a different area that was entirely surrounded by olive groves and vineyards; it was also closer to some of the bigger towns, which meant we weren’t driving every day.
Places to Stay…
Masseria Moroseta in Ostuni. Book early, as this architecturally designed modern hotel only has 6 rooms and dinner spaces get booked up.
Masseria Trapapna in Lecce. A ten-minute drive from the spectacular baroque city of Lecce and has spacious bedrooms and suites, stunning citrus trees in a series of walled gardens and the most beautiful swimming pool.
La Fiermontina - Lecce. Located inside the walls of the old town of Lecce. It has beautiful grounds and rooms with a pool and is perfectly situated for exploring the city.
Palazzo Daniele in Gagliano del Capo, Southern Salento. This is a stunning restoration of a 19th-century palazzo in the small town of Gagliano del Capo, situated in southern Salento. It features original details, including frescoed ceilings, weathered stucco walls and a modern art collection.
Masseria Cimino - Savaletri. This is a small, authentic and rustically stylish Masseria. If you don’t stay, go for dinner. Don’t be frightened by the idea of a buffet as it is excellent and lovely dining on the terrace.
Borgo Egnazia - Savaletri. This is Puglia’s top 5-star luxury hotel. It’s been built from scratch to resemble an original Italian borgo(village), and it does. It’s quite impressive with its own golf course. Go to the beach club for lunch.
Puglia covers a large area and is very spread out, so you must be organised with what you want to do there. The best advice I can give you is to do things in the morning or later in the evening as a lot of these villages truly believe in siestas and to go to a town that is completely shut down while everyone is having a sleep seems a waste! The weather was beautiful and very hot, so this makes such sense that most businesses close at 1 pm and reopen at around 6 pm. So do your research and be sure to plan some fun activities while everyone is snoozing the afternoon away.
Places To Eat…
OSTUNI in Itria Valley is the famous white town on the hill. Dine at Osteria del Tempo Perso, which is cave-like. Also, PiazzettaCathedrale, at the top of the hill near the cathedral, Al Solito Posto, is a fun family restaurant with great pizza. Yum!
Visit the beautiful seaside towns of MONOPOLI, POLIGNANO MARE and SAVELLETRI and wander through the old town and seafront. In Monopoli, dine at Ristorante Ill Guazzetto, South of Monopoli Saleblu, at the Hotel La Peschiera has beautiful water views.
Grotta Palazzese is an amazing cave restaurant; make sure to book ahead!
LECCE in Salento is a must. In this most spectacular baroque city, the old town is the best town to wander through, especially in the early evening during summer.
Visit the charming coastal towns of OTRANTO and GALIPOLLI. In Otranto, make sure to dine La Altro Baffo.
Nothing is better than going to a local village for an aperitivo and watching everyone as they stroll by. I love that it is considered appropriate to appreciate what everyone is wearing and doing! I have well and truly fallen in love with this beautiful part of Puglia and cannot wait to go back again, as there is still so much more to see.
Puglia Must-Sees
Moroseta Nights Dinner at Masseria Moroseta
Lecce is the most beautiful baroque city in Puglia
Grottaglie for beautiful Antonio and Nicola Fasano tableware
Palazzo Daniele in Gagliano del Capo and surrounding towns in southern Salento
Ostuni is described as the white city on the hill